Fear of velvet?

Royal Purple Velvet

At my company, Harobed Designs, we just sold another of our lovely Poet Jackets (TM) - which made me think about velvet and the sometimes puzzling reaction I hear from women about it.

First, though, the velvet we use for our Poet Jackets is not the old almost-impossible-to-work-with velvet, which frayed as soon as it saw a pair of scissors and left tufts of itself all over the place while you were working with it.  No, the velvet we use for our Poet Jackets is the lovely modern stretch velvet, with gorgeous properties, not just the colors, but the way it cuts cleanly and doesn't fray... the way it holds its shape... the way it can be machine washed if you so desire...  Velvet that has come a long way since the Middle Ages.

Which leads me to... why is it people, in the modern era, when we are all supposed to be equal, seem to be so afraid of velvet?  Women will admire my Poet Jacket when I wear it and then say: "Oh, but that's too luxurious for me!" or "I could never wear anything as gorgeous as that...". 

Dusk Blue velvet

This concerns me because in the Middle Ages, there were what's known as sumptuary laws, and velvet was a forbidden fabric.  That's right, if you weren't a member the nobility, you weren't supposed to wear it.  Does this mean that some programming went into our DNA long ago, triggering a present-day obedience to these long-defunct laws? 

Perhaps it's time to take another look at all fabrics -silk, velvet, brocade, satin and more - nowadays, all come in  easy-to-wear, easy-care versions.  If nothing else, you'll be striking a blow for equality, since most, in antiquity, were restricted  to those with a title.  Something to think about, next time you are shopping for clothing...

Periwinkle velvet

Pink Blush velvet

Copyright Deborah C. Sawyer

Look Smarter...BE smarter!

Photo One

First, in case I haven't said it before: Happy New Year 2011!  In this blog, I'm holding true to its name by going inside the designer's head, namely, looking at how your thinking, when you are deciding what to wear, can have a bearing on how your day goes.

We all know the workplace has become more casual in recent years and more relaxed styles of dressing are now the norm. Sadly, for many women, "casual" has more correctly become "haphazard", meaning they do not look smart.  Last year, I was taking a course where many of the women - most of whom were my age-mates - would frequently tell me: "You always look so pulled together!".  I suspect, from the way they said this, they thought it took vast amounts of time and effort to make this happen.

The fact is, it just takes a bit of common sense when you shop for things and a wee bit of effort when you get dressed.  The two photos I am showing with this post are a case in point.  Because I work from home, most days I like to dress comfortably and only put on a formal jacket if I am going out and about.  However, if I gave in to just putting on cords and a sweater (photo one),  I would not look very smart.

Photo Two

Contrast photo 1 with the same cords and sweater but now paired with a matching belt and a necklace (photo 2).  Not only do I look more "pulled together" than in the first photo, I actually feel better.  And feeling better about how you look can have a huge bearing on the kind of day you have, whether you work from home or go out to an office.  It doesn't mean you have to dress up over and above what is expected at the office -  unless you want to - but a bit of thought can go a long way.

One of the reasons most women end up with a bitty and "pulled apart" kind of look is that their closets or wardrobes are bitty; they purchase without a plan and don't stick to colors they really love!  If you're still casting around for a New Year's resolution, why not make one that this year, you will take the time and effort to look more pulled together, so that you will not only LOOK smarter, you'll probably also BE smarter i- and will reap the results you want! 


Copyright Deborah C. Sawyer

Read the label - avoid the cheap C---ese!

Examples of our home decor and gift items

One topic we haven't touched on yet on the inside-out blog is the whole issue of labeling.

Most people have lost the art of reading the label but it's really important, especially if you are trying to live an environmentally-conscious lifestyle.  That's because all the seemingly inexpensive merchandise sold in our stores tends to originate in one country, where working conditions and pay rates are scandalous by Western standards. (Keep reading... blog continues below...)

Velvet & marabou pullover

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     

My company, Harobed Designs, recently took part in a  craft show.
With the holiday season on the horizon and seasonal gift-giving in focus,
we took the opportunity to make a range of items, using up leftover
pieces of the lovely velvets, washable silks, and brocades that we have
left over from making clothes, but which are too small to make the jackets
and other items we usually make.  As a result, we made items such as
tea cozies... shoe bags... and aprons.  Examples of our merchandise are
shown in 1 of the photos uploaded with this blog. (Our final craft show
of the season takes place on Sunday, December 19, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
at the Gladstone Hotel, Queen Street West, just east of Dufferin,
in Toronto, Canada.)

And one other thing we did was add a special label to each of these items. I'm showing this label in the third photo with this blog - and need say no more about it!

We wish everyone the best of the holiday season and all the best in the new year ahead and encourage everyone to make 2011 the year they shop local for at least 70% of the things they buy!


Copyright Deborah C. Sawyer

Sticking with something unique...

It's that time of year when many of us start scrambling to buy seasonal gifts for friends and family.

The store-bought pincushion

And, as you hustle off to the shops, keep in mind the many artisans who have made lovely and unique items which make much better gifts than store-bought, mass-produced merchandise.

The importance of the lovingly crafted item was brought home to me when I recently tidied my sewing desk. For some time, I had been using a pincushion that came from the store. Like so many other things, it was "Made in China". But it was getting rather ratty and I decided to replace it.

And what better to choose than the lovely pincushion made by my godmother, Aunt Mary? Carefully crafted from colorful scraps of material and filled with lavender she grew in her garden, I had been using it as a "reserve" pincushion but decided to use it as my primary one. For one thing, the workmanship in Aunt Mary's is superior to a store-bought item, for another it connects me to the labor of a fellow human being. I can imagine her sitting and painstakingly stitching her pincushion.

The hand-made pincushion

That's why it's important, at this time of year, to seek out the many craft shows and artisan displays to find one-of-a-kind treasures. You won't find these things at the mall or in the glitzy shops. More likely in community halls and church basements. But the effort will be worth it: not only will you be able to give unusual and unique gifts, you will also be honoring the tradition of "Buy Local", as most of these items will be made close to where you live.

Happy Holidays.

P.S. Harobed Designs will be taking part in two craft shows, on December 11 and December 19 in Toronto, The first is at the Ralph Thornton Community Center, 765 Queen Street East and the second is at The Gladstone Hotel at 1214 Queen Street West. Both are on the 2nd floor and both run from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Copyright Deborah C. Sawyer

Unbuttoned...but not undone!

(PHOTOS AT BOTTOM/BLOGGER WON'T LET ME EDIT THEM!)

According to the experts, a blog should be updated daily. However, some of us believe quality is more important than quantity, hence the reason I only post when I think something needs to be said.

This is the time of year when those of us in the North Hemisphere have to start wearing our heavier coats or buy a new one. I recently decided to retire the lined raincoat which I'd been wearing since 1983. (My European roots dictate that I make my clothing last!)

So, I went to a leading department store in my city, and bought what they used to refer to as a "famous maker" raincoat.(Photo #5) According to the hang tag, "Since 1927, X has maintained a heritage of unparalleled dedication to quality, workmanship and timeless style that is evident in everything we make".

In truth, the body of the garment is well made. I particularly like the strap buttoned to the inside of the belt, which passes through a belt loop and ensures the belt cannot fall off and get lost.(Photo #4)

Too bad the same care wasn't taken with the buttons. Just about each and every one was not finished off properly. The threads of the shank, which has to be made with thread, if the shank isn't part of the button, were all loose. (Photo #3) Even worse, the button on the inside of code, which helps hold a double-breasted style evenly, came completely off - this was just two weeks after I bought the coat! (Photo # 2)

I had to over-sew each and very button. (Photo #1)

This leads to two tips: obviously, if you buy a coat - or, for any that matter, any garment - double check the buttons and over-sew them when necessary. A second tip is: always buy a spool of thread the same year you buy the garment. Thread colors are like fashion colors and, five years down the road, you may not be able to get a matching thread.

Copyright Deborah C. Sawyer

2. Dangling threads from lost button

3. Shank unraveling

4. Belt-retaining loop

5. The coat itself

1.Over-sewn button

More observations from the runway

Our "Serene" design on the runway

One of the challenges I face, as a designer, is the disconnect between the sizes of clothing I make and the sizes of the runway models.


Although it's well-known that most women in North America take a size 12 or higher, runway models tend to be size 6 or size 8.  The problem here is the time that has to be spent making styles in smaller sizes when our styles are generally not worn by women in their teens or 20s, but by mature women, decidedly on the plus size of 30 years of age.

Serene on a Size 10

One of the comments I get is that some of my garments, on the runway, don't seem to have a shape, such as a waist line.  In fact, nearly all my jackets have shape, in the form of the cut of the side seam or darts used in the body of the garment, but this just does not show up when the model is so decidedly small compared to the garment.  While there are modeling agencies, which offer what are known as "real women" for modeling purposes, the fashion industry is only now coming around to the idea that women take larger sizes.


It's become quite talked about that, for the first time in living memory, some of the larger New York City stores, such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman, are actually ordering in clothing in size 12 and up.  Historically, the largest size they would order was a size 10.

Our design "Svelte" on the runway

My company, Harobed Designs, has always made clothing in larger sizes.  We regularly have sizes 16 and 18.  Our emphasis is on providing great style and unique options for women in all sizes.  However, it's an uphill battle, and we always appreciate anything our customers or blog followers can do, to get the word out.


So, if you know people who take larger sizes, send them a copy of this post and let them know about our company.

Svelte on a size 10

In the meantime, the photos I am showing show some of our clothes on the runway, on the models who are size 6 to 8, and then on someone who is more appropriately sized around size 10 or 12.  As you can see, the clothes hang better on the person with the larger size.

Our design "Influence" on the runway

Influence on a size 10

Copyright Deborah C. Sawyer

Backstage pass - fall 2010 runway show

Clothes on racks, ready to go!

Most runway shows, especially when featuring a single designer, don't last very long but the outward appearance is deceptive.  What shows up on the runway is really the 'tip of the iceberg' compared to what goes on backstage prior to the event.

Obviously, the first step is the design and manufacture of the garments, which may take several months, culminating in the designer working18 hour days - or longer - leading up to the show.

Six of my models in pre-show chat mode

As for the area backstage, preparation starts up hours before the actual show.  The garments have to be dropped off, the show has to be organized, the models have to be prepped in makeup and hair styling, and everything has to work with precision.  As the Head Stylist remarked at the show I participated in, the last week in September, it's really amazing how a group of people, who have possibly never worked together before, can come together, put on a show and have it go smoothly.

In the photos with this blogpost, I'm once again taking you behind the scenes, showing where the clothes were prepared for the various segments (this was a multi-designer show) and also the models who wore my particular designs, waiting to go out on the runway.

Five minutes to showtime!

In my next blog post, I'll take you out into the audience and show more photos from that perspective.

One minute to showtime

In the meantime, if you'd like to view all the designs I showed, use this link: http://canadawears.ca/2010/the-clothing-show-fall-2010/photoset-482.php